Scientists Unveil the Key to the Perfect Plate of Pasta

Italian scientists have figured out how to achieve a flawlessly creamy pasta sauce each time by delving into the physics of cooking Cacio E Pepe.

Cacio E Pepe translates to “cheese and pepper” and is a classic Italian dish made with pasta, Pecorino Romano cheese, and black pepper.

Despite its simplicity, this recipe can easily be mishandled. Combining warm pasta water with cheese can lead to a sticky clump of cheese and watery pasta instead of a smooth, creamy sauce.

Researchers from the University of Barcelona in Spain, the Max Planck Institute for Complex Systems Physics in Germany, the University of Padova in Italy, and the Institute of Science and Technology in Austria collaborated to analyze the science behind a creamy Cacio E Pepe sauce.

“We are Italians living abroad,” said Dr. Ivan di Terlizzi from the Max Planck Institute. “We often gather for dinner and enjoy traditional dishes.

“While cooking Cacio E Pepe, I thought this would be an intriguing physical system to investigate and explain. Plus, it served a practical purpose to avoid wasting good Pecorino.

A recent study, published in Liquid Physics by the American Institute of Physics, revealed that the secret to a creamy, cheesy sauce lies in the water.

Typically, fats like oils and cheese should not mix with water. However, the starch in the pasta water, when added to the cheese, acts as a stabilizer to create creamy emulsions.

Research author Dr. Daniel Busiello explained to BBC Science Focus that when cheese is heated, its proteins “change composition” and stick together.

“But starch mitigates this effect by binding to cheese proteins, reducing their direct interactions and thereby limiting aggregation,” he detailed.

According to scientists, the ideal pasta water for a creamy Cacio E Pepe sauce contains about 2-3% starch, and they advise against accidentally leaving starch in your water.

“Starch is a critical ingredient, and its quantity can be precisely measured. Therefore, we recommend using accurately measured amounts of starch,” Da Terlizzi said. “This can only be achieved if you have the correct amount of powdered starch in proportion to the cheese you are using.”

As a result, the researchers suggest adding a measured amount of potato starch or corn flour to the water, rather than pouring raw pasta water directly into the pan.

They also recommend allowing the water to cool before incorporating the cheese.

For perfect creaminess, scientists advise first mixing the water and starch, then combining this starch-water mixture with the cheese, adding it all to the pan, and slowly heating it. Finally, add the black pepper and pasta.

Busiello noted that the scientists’ recipe “remains faithful to Italian traditions,” with the only alteration being the use of powdered starch to maintain control over the amount used.

“An experienced chef probably does not require our recipe,” he remarked. “However, we offer a method to ensure that traditional Cacio E Pepe can be prepared even in challenging situations, like cooking large amounts of pasta, effortlessly.”

“Of course, we tested this method with over two kilograms of pasta, and all our guests enjoyed it!”

Busiello added that measuring starch could also benefit other Italian pasta dishes, such as spaghetti Aglio e olio and Carbonara, which also rely on pasta water and cheese sauce.

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About our experts

Dr. Daniel M. Busiello is a distinguished PKS fellow at the Max Planck Institute for the Physics of Complex Systems in Dresden, Germany, and works as an independent researcher. He previously studied at the University of Salerno and Pisa before completing his PhD in Entropy Production in Non-equilibrium Systems at Padova University.