“Come with me,” Nando instructed. “I know its location.”
It was late morning, warm, humid, and serene. As we made our way along the path filtered through the jungle’s trellis-like hue, beams of sunlight pierced through the foliage. A colossal cargo vessel, several hundred yards away, was laden with containers lining the Panama Canal. Yet, it felt like an entirely different realm.
We strolled alongside the verdant banks of the fragrant rainforest, home to countless birds. I was on a quest for something particular.
In a vibrant clearing of woodlands, it appeared just like all the others to me. Our guide paused.
“Who is, Who is, Who is,” he called softly, then listened intently.
“I can’t rely on my eyes,” he murmured. “You need to use your ears.”
When he called for the third time, I listened and responded softly. Who is, Who is, Who is.
It was incredible. Nando was communicating with birds.
A stout, small striped antpipit alighted on a branch nearby. I stood there, utterly mesmerized as the man and the bird gently exchanged calls.
“This is the same bird I’ve been calling for years,” Nando expressed with delight in his voice.
“You mean the same species?” I asked.
“No, no,” he grinned. “The very same individual. That bird has become very dear to me.”
In that brief moment, a profound connection blossomed between man and bird, creating lasting memories during our recent travels in Panama.
This past December, my family and I ventured into birdwatching in Panama. The country is rapidly developing its ecotourism sector and operates in the same time zone as Chicago, minimizing jet lag for most Americans. The Panama Canal holds a rich cosmopolitan history, serving as a habitat for both immigrant and indigenous bird species, from magnificent frigatebirds soaring through the sky to charming forest birds, skillfully highlighted by Nando.
This is also why the Panama Canal was built in the early 20th century, revolutionizing global trade and accounting for the abundance of birdlife here. It lies in the isthmus between North and South America, bordered by the world’s largest oceans, the Pacific and Atlantic. With everything from sun-soaked beaches to cool, forested mountains reaching over 10,000 feet, this area showcases dramatically varying altitudes and climates.
Before Donald Trump took office, he proposed a trip to the canal, stirring discussions about reclaiming it. This topic didn’t gain much traction among the three birdwatching sites we visited. Fellow birdwatchers were too captivated by their sightings, and the locals we met largely dismissed the issue as bold and untroubling.
And as Nando remarked, “Everyone is aware of one aspect, but there’s so much more.”
I’ve learned to appreciate the nuances.
We began our journey in Panama City, established over 500 years ago and now a bustling trading hub. The old town is undergoing a renaissance, characterized by its red-brick streets. La Compania, once a monastery, now boasts a long bar beneath slowly swirling ceiling fans, offering cocktails that evoke a warm, romantic ambiance of old tropical charm. We also enjoyed delightful jazz music at Spikey’s, while Villaana reminded me of the elegant old houses of Savannah, Georgia.
Wildlife Amidst a Cargo Ship
On our first morning, we connected with Nando, whose full name is Ismael Hernando Kiros Miranda. He started his own birdwatching operation a few years ago, following a recommendation from someone in the hotel industry. As we journeyed from the city to the canal zone, he shared pieces of his life story.
“I was one of those who never had many opportunities,” he reflected.
He described how he cultivated crops and cut trees in his village after someone assaulted his father on their family farm. The natural world became his domain, and he dedicated years to learning about birds, trees, habitats, climate change, and Panama’s ecological systems.
Shortly after arriving at the canal zone, he and his son Ismael, who assists him, guided us to a red-lored parrot sailing through the sky—followed by a toucan that resembled a frog. We admired a brilliant social flycatcher and a pipit with striking yellow feathers. Nando ambled with his head slightly tilted, always listening intently. When he located a bird, he would use a laser pointer to help us focus on its position in the trees. By sunrise, golden rays touched the water, and by 9 AM, we had already spotted over 55 bird species.
However, our experience transcended mere birdwatching. My family are avid bird enthusiasts, and I realized that birdwatching opens the door to witnessing a plethora of other wonders. As we trailed behind Nando, we encountered vibrant blue morpho butterflies, odd-looking agoutis, leaf-cutter ants bustling across the jungle floor, and even wriggling red carpets. Off in the distance, the loud howls of monkeys echoed, although they remained hidden behind a thick curtain of cedar, ficus, giant fig trees, and towering bamboo.
“Oh, look at that,” my wife Courtney exclaimed, as a dragonfly buzzed around like a miniature helicopter.
“Helicopter dance fly,” Nando remarked. “Probably a female.”
His knowledge astounded me.
Magical Valley
After a successful day with Nando, we journeyed for two hours to a charming town called El Valle de Antón. Upon arrival, we noticed the homes were larger and the gardens even more enchanting. I spotted a traveler with a lovely backpack strolling along the main road, riding a few bicycles as we passed.
El Valle resembles a picturesque fairy tale, featuring a quaint hacienda with a red roof nestled among lush green mountains. At an elevation of 2,000 feet above Panama City, it boasts cooler temperatures and lower humidity, attracting travelers and affluent locals alike. New cafes with vibrant, painted tables lined the sidewalks. We indulged in delicious empanadas, and just thinking about their perfect crust and mouthwatering fillings makes me crave more. El Valle feels reminiscent of Bali Ubud two decades ago.
I spent two days at the Canopy Lodge, a cozy retreat crafted by birdwatchers for birdwatchers. On my first morning, I woke up early, grabbed my laptop, and tiptoed into the dining room.
“Hey!” a tall man exclaimed, appearing unexpectedly. “Did you spot the Rufous Motmot?”
It was 6:30 AM, and I was about to check my emails.
“It’s a stunning bird,” he remarked.
His outfit featured an impressive 3-foot-long camera rig, complete with a camouflage hood and a lens resembling a cannon.
The email waiting for me felt trivial and regretful. So, following his suggestion, I ventured through the bushes behind the kitchen and there it was: the Rufous Motmot, radiant in its deep colors—green, yellow, and blue feathers—and sporting a delicate racket tail swaying gracefully.
The Canopy Lodge forms part of a network of eco-friendly lodges initiated by Raul Arias de Para, an economist belonging to one of Panama’s notable families. “Panama,” he explained, “is a beautiful country, vastly different from the unfortunate stereotypes surrounding tax evasion and corruption.”
Raul collaborates with the Cornell Lab of Ornithology to establish a 24/7 Bird Camera behind the dining area. While dining and discussing birds, we observed tanagers, aracaris, woodpeckers, and barbets. Following this, we ventured into the nearby jungle for more birdwatching.
One highlight was visiting a banana farm, which turned a small, lush garden into a significant bird feeder. The farmer spoke little English, and my Spanish was lacking, so we quietly sat on his porch, eagerly watching colorful birds feast on bananas. My favorite was the red-legged honeycreeper, a diminutive wonder donned in vibrant blue with striking red legs.
Coconut Ice Cream, Caiman, Owl
Our final destination was Isla Palenque, a luxury resort on the Pacific coast of Panama. We returned to Panama City and caught a brief flight to the town of David. Here, with extended family, we enjoyed leisurely poolside moments, played soccer on the beach, and savored a sumptuous dinner (beef tenderloin stuffed with pasta in a delightful coffee sauce, fresh seafood, with lemon tart and coconut ice cream for dessert).
Beyond our villas, wildlife was abundant in the surrounding forest, and several resort staff members were naturalists like Nando. We continued to explore.
One evening, a young man named Francis took us on a walk where we encountered a rainbow beetle, a scorpion, a possum, and even a 3-foot-long caiman. At dawn, he led us to a palm grove, where a group of crested oropendolas were busy gathering long strands of grapes, floating gracefully, while crafting a nest that hung from trees like socks. I spent a delightful 15 minutes engrossed in their antics.
Francis mistakenly informed my 15-year-old son, Apollo, our family’s top birder, about the elusive and magnificent owls residing in the jungle. From that moment, Apollo consistently inquired of the resort staff about their sightings. On our final day, we embarked on a last-ditch effort to locate them.
Just minutes from our villa, we felt transported to a remote part of the jungle. We could hear birds but struggled to see them, as insects swarmed around us, and sweat dripped down our faces.
Francis raised his fist firmly, signaling us to stop suddenly as we seen in the military.
We halted immediately. He gestured subtly. I caught a glimpse of it.
Perched on a sunlit branch, the owl stared back at us with its large, radiant yellow eyes.
We were face to face with one of the most extraordinary creatures of the forest, led by sounds just as Nando had shown us on our first day.
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