When you mention a work trip to New York, envy is likely the reaction you’ll receive. A summit in Paris? Instant jealousy. But say you’re heading to Chernobyl for the 40th anniversary of the world’s worst nuclear catastrophe, and you’ll likely see concern instead.

Many will caution you about cancer risks while others will recall sensational headlines and dramatic documentaries, suggesting radioactive contamination is unavoidable. To uncover the truth, we ventured into the no-go zone. Has pollution improved or worsened? Is nature suffering or thriving? Will the region ever see repopulation? Could the ongoing conflict with Russia reopen radiation concerns?

Four decades on, Chernobyl offers a range of insights, from engineering advancements aimed at radiation containment to environmental transformations as large cooling ponds give way to flourishing forests, and the increasing populations of rare species such as wolves and moose. However, the narrative is complicated by the war, which has sparked widespread devastation, military involvement, and a tumultuous geopolitical landscape.

Presently, Chernobyl exists as a heavily restricted military zone—situated on the Ukrainian border and a potential route for further invasions. With the limited cooperation of scientists in the area, New Scientist has obtained rare access. Documenting our visit reveals how the simplistic view of Chernobyl as just a barren wasteland misses its complex history. Nature is resilient, pollution is largely under control, and the Exclusion Zone has become an intriguing and beautiful locale.

The future of Chernobyl—and indeed all of Ukraine—is uncertain. The ongoing conflict complicates management efforts and hinders scientific research. With the threat of drone attacks looming, the most pressing danger to Chernobyl’s stability may not be radiation (which can be monitored with appropriate funding) but rather the actions of Russia.