jessica, 25 years old, recalls an incident at Sephora where a young girl rushed to a crying colleague. “Her skin was on fire,” Jessica noted, “It was bright red. She was frantically applying every acid she could find on her face.”

Former Sephora employee KM (25 years old) shared her experiences, recalling an incident where a woman caught shoplifting explained to the guards, “She didn’t have a Dior lip gloss, so she was attempting to steal one because her child was facing bullying. Although she couldn’t afford it, her daughter warned her she would be teased at school.”

Gabby, 26, who spent three years at Sephora, remarked, “I witnessed so much.” One parent even asked Gabby if her tween should “start using retinol now to prevent aging.”

Another mother requested Gabby to make her daughter’s nose appear smaller. “After the mom left, I felt compelled to tell the girl, ‘Your nose is beautiful, by the way.’ It’s not my place to say it, but I just had to.”

The “Sephora Kids” phenomenon—encompassing preteens, upscale beauty stores, and the strong bond between expensive and often harsh products—is now well recognized. Research from Circana indicates that, in the first half of last year, one-third of “prestige” beauty sales were influenced by tweens and households with teenagers. That same year, Sephora, under LVMH ownership, achieved around $9 billion in US sales, while Ulta Beauty reported $11.3 billion, according to Statista.

This trend is fueled by skincare content shared by beauty influencers, which puts young skin at “significant dermatological risk.” A recent study from Northwestern University highlights that skincare routines popular among tweens on TikTok involve an average of 11 potentially irritating active ingredients, leading to possible acute reactions and lifelong allergies.

Sephora has attempted to distance itself from the trend, as President and CEO Artemis Patrick stated, “We’re not marketing to this demographic.” It’s not about promoting anti-aging products to children. Last year, the brand Drunk Elephant experienced a significant decline in sales, attributed to a disconnect with older customers.

The issue has escalated this summer, as former and current Sephora employees report concerning scenarios they have witnessed.

Summer tends to be peak season for “Sephora Kids,” as school is out and retail spaces are increasingly rare. The vibrant, lively environment of beauty stores—with loud music and brightly colored products—acts as a significant attraction for children.

According to employees, toddlers often run amok unsupervised, disrupting displays, knocking over merchandise, and filling baskets with testers. KM referred to these children as “free-range kids,” often distracted by loud YouTube videos.

Kennedy, who works at a Sephora inside a Kohl’s department store near the junior clothing section, noted, “The traffic is very intentional.” Parents often drop their kids at Sephora while they shop elsewhere. It’s common for her to see parents swiping their cards for large amounts without realizing what their children are actually purchasing.

Employees have tried to dissuade younger children from using products meant for mature skin.

However, Gabby mentioned that even parents don’t always pay heed to their advice. “They often disregard it,” Jessica said, “When I warned one mom about a product being too harsh for her child’s skin, she simply replied, ‘I saw it on TikTok’ and bought everything.”

There can be tense exchanges between parents and their tweens. “But I saw it online; it has to be good!” KM noted while mentioning the typical tantrums, like kids insisting, “I want lip gloss!” “But you already have six!” the mothers argue back.

All employees agreed that many beauty products remain unused. “If products sit open for a while, they just become waste,” KM noted, highlighting the issue of overconsumption.

Shoplifting, or “reducing” stores, has also become prevalent. “I frequently find so many empty boxes at work,” Gabby pointed out. Erika, 28, remarked on how social media has normalized a culture of “borrowing” without accountability among children.

Children often use their parents’ credit cards. “I’ve seen kids pull out shiny American Express cards, and I just know it’s not theirs,” Gabby said. Erika noted she witnessed groups of girls casually asking their parents for purchases.

This behavior reflects the broader trend of preteens acting like mini adults. Kennedy described it as a “strange qualification,” where children carry their phones and Starbucks cups, often joking about needing “to start anti-aging right away.” Despite their jest, the pressure of anti-aging has seeped into the minds of young children.

For Joy, a 25-year-old Sephora employee, the attitude is pervasive. The pressure from social media leads girls to think, “Celebrities and influencers in their 50s still look my age.” They are increasingly aware of the role of cosmetic procedures.

Erika frequently notices young girls scrutinizing their own skin, often asking, “Do you think I have pores?” They view everything through a filtered lens.

Dr. Meghan Owentz, a clinical associate professor specializing in parenting and anxiety, asserts that while it’s natural for preteen girls to focus on personal hygiene, today’s pressure has significantly altered how they navigate comparisons with others. With social media amplifying these messages, they feel inundated with constant information.

The desire for belonging among children through brands like sneakers and collectible cards isn’t new. However, those born after 2010 face unprecedented marketing saturation. Surveys suggest that 43% of Generation Alpha kids had tablets before six, and 58% received their first iPhone by age ten. Government research from 2023 indicates that social media use is now “nearly universal,” affecting even 40% of children between 8-12 years old. On these platforms, the line between authentic content and advertisements is often blurred, particularly in the beauty influencer space.

KM began to notice the invasive language of influencers in young customers, who often echo phrases like, “I repeat the actual product name over and over. I don’t really know why I’m doing this, but I saw someone promote it.”

Owentz links this surge in influencer culture to a surge in superficial discussions around topics like “my skincare routine” and “Get Ready with Me,” adding that these dialogues are often not suitable for young girls who may feel pressured to conform to unrealistic beauty standards.

“There are simply too many advertisements targeted at kids, making it hard for them to say no,” Owentz stated. “Children are under immense pressure and often redirect that burden onto their parents.”

She emphasized that it’s up to parents to discern what’s appropriate for their children and communicate their rationale clearly.

Yet, California Senator Alex Lee argues that the responsibility shouldn’t rest solely on parents, criticizing the lack of clear warnings regarding product ingredients. “The typical parent isn’t a pediatric dermatologist,” he noted. He has proposed bills aimed at prohibiting the sale of products containing ingredients like retinol to those under 18, which have not passed due to pushback from the Personal Care Product Council.

Many employees believe that beauty brands are deliberately targeting this younger demographic. Kennedy observed that brands have begun to adjust their packaging to be more colorful, introducing tween-friendly offerings like lip oils and blush, alongside skincare products meant for older users.

Some brands foster a culture of collecting, as Gaby explained: “They release limited-edition products, such as matcha-flavored lip balm, even if kids already have several similar items. But they still want the newest scent.”

Sephora, Ulta, and Drunk Elephant did not respond to requests for comment. Nonetheless, the skincare industry is progressively expanding its range of products targeted at younger skin, often employing enticing marketing aimed at parents, featuring close-ups of bottles and vibrant packaging.

Trends are emerging: kids have been celebrating birthdays at some Sephora and Ulta stores for a while now, but Ulta just recently introduced their formal $42 per guest party package, designed to offer “75-90 minutes of beauty enjoyment” using products created “with tweens and teens in mind.” This reinforces the idea that such initiatives cater to grooming needs, allowing guests the chance to invest more with a 20% coupon on their next visit.

Some names have been changed to protect the identity of current Sephora employees.

Illustrations by Min Heo