fermentation
Tim Spector (Jonathan Cape (UK); US publication date TBC)

Humans are drawn to fermentation for two primary reasons: preservation and pleasure. Before the advent of refrigeration, fermentation allowed beverages like meads to be stored for months when untreated water could pose dangers. Additionally, milk that would spoil within a day could be transformed into yogurt or cheese, lasting for weeks. This evolution led us to develop a taste for these tangy flavors. The microorganisms responsible for creating these delights not only produced unique drinks but also offered numerous health advantages.

Today, foods like kimchi and sauerkraut are mostly solid. However, Dr. Tim Spector asserts in his upcoming book Fermentation: The Power of Microorganisms to Change Your Life that this trend is not novel; we have evolved to incorporate these items into our diets.

He begins with the fundamentals, explaining that fermentation is essentially the transformation of food by microorganisms. This process is complex, affecting not only the taste and durability of food but also our health. Even inactive microbes can influence our bodies and minds.

Fermentation closely ties to our microbiota. Fermented foods provide substrates for intestinal microorganisms, transforming into nutrients and active compounds like short-chain fatty acids that assist in regulating nutrition and immune responses. These foods bolster the beneficial microbes that uphold the gut’s mucosal barrier and reduce inflammation.

Fermented foods also introduce millions of probiotics to our bodies. Spector notes that a diverse microbiota correlates with better health, supported by numerous studies. He suggests that enhancing this diversity through fermented foods could even influence the efficacy of cancer treatments.

The most compelling aspect of Fermentation is its exploration of this “microbial pharmacy,” with preliminary studies indicating that fermented products are tied to improvements in everything from irritable bowel syndrome to anxiety and immune health.

Spector’s own investigations, reflecting trends in nutritional studies, suggest that those who consume fermented products regularly report approximately 14% less severe symptoms compared to individuals taking other supplements.

This book includes fascinating information. For instance, despite attempts to cultivate around 30 distinct microorganisms found in natural kefir grains (ideal for making kefir), laboratories haven’t successfully replicated them.

Throughout Fermentation, it becomes apparent how crucial microorganisms are to our lives, merely scratching the surface of their interactions with us. Access to Spector’s health data often supports further research, although his company’s gut supplements are mentioned, potentially hinting at marketing motivations.

At its best, the book strikes a balance between science, medical anecdotes, and Spector’s personal fermentation journey, offering practical advice. During these moments, the writing appears genuine and accessible, especially when guiding readers on food choices, like opting for kefir made from whole milk grains, which include numerous microorganisms and yeast.

Nevertheless, Fermentation can occasionally feel repetitive, and knowledge sometimes overshadows storytelling. Despite Spector’s caution against overgeneralizing animal studies, the infancy of research in this area means he often relies heavily on his own conclusions. Still, this is a compelling and meticulously researched work. The final chapter is particularly intriguing, and I eagerly anticipate a future rich with understanding individual microorganisms— for instance, how cheese or yogurt might aid in alleviating depression or managing menopause.

Initially hesitant to ferment at home, I was encouraged to embark on my own experiments by around page 40. By the book’s conclusion, I had a jar of kombucha and some sauerkraut stashed away in my pantry.

Helen Thomson is a London-based author

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